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PLANNING YOUR TIMBER FRAME HOMEIf you are anything
like me you have dreamed about building your own timber frame
home for years. Dreaming about it is the easy part. Planning it
IS work. Fortunately the more research and planning you do ahead
of time the easier it will be for you in the long run. The only
regret I have about my now completed timber frame home is that
we didn't build it sooner.
I have gathered some
pertinent questions it will be necessary to ask & answer
before you can realistically start your planning process. |
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Do I know where I want to build my timber frame home?
- What is your land BUDGET _______________? Be realistic.
- What qualities does the property have that may affect
your choice of a timber frame plan? How does the land lie?
- Are there features you wish to emphasize such as a
stream ,lake site, waterfalls, distant views, a place
for a sunny garden, unusual plants, specimen trees,
boulder or rock formations, etc.?
- Is the land FLAT?
- Is the land SLOPING?
- Is the land STEEP? These questions will help you
consider where to place the entrance of your timber
frame home. You do not have to always have the entrance
on the ground floor
- What if any views do you have that you want to make
use of?
This question is not always as easy to
answer as you might think. When planning our timber frame
home we had only assessed the property in the spring and
summer; when fall came we had a view of the mountains I
could not pass up. So if possible you should consider your
property seasonally. The leaves are not always on the trees.
This should also be taken into consideration when assessing
how much natural light a room will receive.
- How much does Mother Nature love you?
- Will your home be subject to heavy snow loads?
- How much rain will you get? Will you have to have an
erosion plan? Will extra money have to be spent dealing
with the run off?
- Snow-belt, Sun-belt, will temperature extremes be
involved? Are the R-values of the SIP's going to change
from the norm?
- Let deciduous trees shade your home in summer,
decreasing heat gain in summer. They will allow sunlight
in to warm the house in winter.
- A two foot overhang will help protect the sides of
your timber frame home and decrease heat gain in summer,
and it will let sunlight in from a lower winter sun in
the cold months.
- No man is an island at least not where most
building departments and utilities companies are concerned.
Some things to keep in mind are:
- How will you get electricity to your building site?
Is there electric service nearby that you will able use?
Are you miles away from the nearest power pole? Are you
going to have to pay to run power to your site? Are you
going to go solar or have your own generator?
- · Will the property pass a perc test? A perc
test indicates the soils ability to absorb liquid over a
specified period of time. How long it takes the soil to
absorb liquids will be a deciding factor in how large
and what type septic system you will be required to
have. If it does not pass a perc test you may not be
permitted to build on the land.
- Is there a hook up to local sewer system available?
- Is there a source of potable water? Is there a hook
up to the local water system available? In rural areas,
obtaining potable water usually means drilling a well.
You may want to find out how deep and how much well
costs usually run in your area.
- How will your building site be accessed? Does it
already have a driveway with plenty of parking for
construction? With a timber frame you will need at least
room for a crane and an area from which to stage the
timber frame materials? Is the area ABOVE where the
crane will be working free of overhanging branches,
power lines, etc.? I have yet to meet a crane operator
that trims trees for free.
- How far away from a fire department is the property?
This question is posed for you to consider the after
construction insurance costs more than any thing else.
- Does any one in the household have need to be near to
a hospital, dialysis center, etc?
Do you know what style timber frame home you want? Post
and beam, mortise and tenon, post and plate, are to be
considered. Not all cost the same thing to construct, nor does
it cost the same thing to erect a unique post and plate house as
it does a bent type home.
Our timber frame office
complex is post and plate timber frame construction of eastern
white pine. Our model home's great room is a fine example of
compound joinery and is cut of eastern white pine. The remainder
of our timber frame model home is mortise and tenon bent type
construction and is cut of hemlock from Maine. Our timber frame
structures are joined by oak or locust pegs unless a structural
engineer specifically calls for metal to be employed in the
joining of materials.
Do you know what species of wood you want? The
majority of our timber frames are cut of eastern white pine.
Eastern White Pine is readily available in our area, and we
believe it is more stable than other woods (i.e. it splits,
warps, and twists less than other varieties).
We
have cut timber frames of Douglas fir, cypress, white oak,
southern yellow pine, and hemlock. We generally use green
timbers which have higher water content and are more easily
sculpted. We can, however, have the timbers dried prior to
cutting. This does add considerable expense and does not prevent
the natural cracking or checking of the wood as it dries. It
should be noted that the natural cracking or checking of the
wood as it dries does not affect the structural integrity of the
timber frame structure.
Eastern White Pine is
readily available locally it varies in color from white to cream
when it is freshly cut, turning to a golden honey color in a few
years. It checks less and is more stable than most other woods.
Hemlock which we obtain from Maine and Massachusetts
is also white to light cream in color when it is freshly cut
turns to a light coffee with cream color after a few years.
Hemlock is said to have insect repellant qualities. Hemlock
checks and turns more than Eastern white pine as it dries.
It is our standard to use cherry or walnut splines to
strengthen the some of the joints in our timber frames. We have
at the customers request used splines of oak and southern yellow
pine.
What are your timber frame design needs?You have to
decide what your families needs are, present and future. You
want a floor plan that your family will be able to enjoy and
support your activities throughout the years and still remain
functional.
Designing by Wrote. Writing things down
is an excellent organizational tool. If you are a couple we
suggest you start with two separate lists and then merge them
into one. Whether you design the house your self or turn it over
to an architect or designer you will need to fill out the lists.
Really, they work.
The first list should be that or
what is required by code, covenant or development in order to
get your building approved. I am going to title this list GOT TO
HAVE IT LIST. I will give you some examples of what should be on
the 'Got to Have it List'. Each persons 'Got to have it list'
will be unique to them and their own timber frame.
"Got To Have It List"The minimum or maximum
sq footage your development allows should go here.
Code issues such as septic systems, set backs, maximum height of
the building, earth disturbance guidelines, how far back your
timber frame has to be from the creek or stream, etc, should be
on the list.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
Now you are ready for the 'Way We Were List'.
In the past I have suggested to our clients for years is to get
out a new piece of paper and write down on one side of the paper
things you have loved or enjoyed about all the places you have
lived in or visited throughout the years. I have recently
broadened the list to include things you dislike about your past
homes-so you don't repeat your mistakes.
It will
then be easier to see what you really want in your new home and
make wise choices. Do you really need a formal living room if
you never used the one in your present home? We did this in our
new timber frame home and people are always surprised that we
don't have a TV in the great room. We do however have an area in
the room where people can gather round and make music.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
I have titled the 'If we could list' aka
'REACH FOR THE SKY'.
This is where the list on wish
you write down your wants, not your needs. If they are written
down you may be able to incorporate them into your final design.
But if no one knows about them, how are they are going to get
the attention they deserve?
When Joe and I
married we had a LOT of books. Surprisingly a lot were
duplicates and they were given to 'the Friends of the Library'
here in Franklin. The Friends of the Library then sold them to
buy different new things for the Macon County Library. One way
the architect suggested handling our books was using them to
line a few of the walls of out timber frame. That idea was
finally incorporated into lining sections of the walls of our
loft; the adjacent area serves as a functional seating area for
reading, and over flow party area.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
Next you need to find out how your present house is
working for you now. In other words are the rooms too big, too
little, not used, etc. You will need to write down the rooms in
your house along with their measurements, and then write
comments about them - out from them. Sounds simple and it is.
What is more important is that it works.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
Now we put all the completed lists together:
REACH for the SKY
- Library Space for all of our books
- Kitchen large enough for two people to work in at one
time.
- Two sinks in the kitchen.
- Lots of CLEAR counter space in kitchen.
- Pantry for all of our serving pieces and stock
household goods.
- Main part of the house on the ground floor.
- Multiple ways to access the ground floor.
- One of the ground floor entry ways should be a set of
double doors to move stuff in and out easily.
- Separate sink areas in the master bath for his and
her own areas.
- Place to make music and have friends over.
- One of entry doors should spill out to creek side
patios area; have easy access to kitchen area.
- Easy access to mud room/laundry, kitchen from outside
of the house.
- Large but not HUGE master suite.
- Lot should be flat.
- Lot should have stream or running water.
- Lot should be with in 20 minutes of hospital.
- Stainless steel kitchen appliances.
- Good view.
- _____
- _____
- _____
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What is below is a rule of thumb room by room guideline
suggestion for homes. They are not set in stone. Your local
building department probably has their own set of guidelines
that they go by. These are a place to start. Your own county
building department will be your best source of information.
Kitchens
* Place them near the dining room; you
should not have to go through another room to get to the dining
room from the kitchen.
* Place near a service door to the
outside of the house - for less hassle of bringing in groceries.
* Use a durable, weather resistant floor that goes all the
way to the outside door.
* Position the big "3"
the sink, range and refrigerator so they fall with in a 12' -
22' work triangle. The rule of thumb is there should be at least
4' but no more that 9' between each arm of this triangle.
*Dishwasher and refrigerator doors should not be placed where
they would open into any entry into your kitchen.
*
Dishwashers should always be placed near the sink.
Typical appliance sizes are:
- Standard, single door refrigerators - 32" - 34"
wide, allow 36" of space.
- Double door refrigerators take up more space. Check the
actual size recommendations in the manual.
- Dishwashers - 24" wide.
- Range/Oven 30" wide. * Newer professional grade
range/ovens can be 48". Check with your product
manufacturer.
- Standard double sinks - 32" wide.
Typical sizes of cabinets and countertops: Base
cabinets (including tops) are 36" tall and 25" deep.
Upper cabinets - 12" deep, placed 15 to 18"
above the base cabinets.
There should be at least 24"
of counter top on one side of the sink and 18" on the
other. This not absolute, but I would not recommend using any
less.
There should be at least 15" of countertop on
the latch side of the refrigerator. Once again this is not an
absolute but a strong recommendation.
There should be at
least 15" on one side of the cook top and at least 9"
on the other. Once again this is a strong recommendation.
Kitchens are expensive to refit.
The Shape of Kitchens"U" is the most
efficient.
"L" works well for an eat-in kitchen.
Galley or corridor works well in smaller house and
apartments.
General kitchen spacing: You need at
least 36" of space between cabinets/appliances and other
cabinets/appliances or islands; 42"-48" Separation is
strongly recommended though. This becomes a crucial measurement
when trying to incorporate an island. They take a lot of room
and shouldn't be squeezed in.
Dining RoomsI have heard of two ways to size a dining
room properly:
| 1. |
Allow 42" from the edge of the table to the wall
so there is ample room. An example: a 3' x 5' table needs
10' x 12' space. |
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Allow 30 square feet per person. An example: 6 people x
30' = 180 square feet or a room 12' x 15'. |
Family Rooms
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Near the kitchen, often open to the kitchen. |
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Usually in the rear of the house, allows more privacy,
usually not visualized from the front door. |
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A small sized family room is around 12' x 16', average
size is around 14'x 18. |
Living Rooms
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Usually located in the front of the house, often
opposite the dining room. |
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Typically has at least one long wall for placing sofa
and for hanging formal pictures. |
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Minimum size is 12' x 16'; average size is 12' -14'wide
by 16' - 18' long. |
Foyers or Entry Areas6' x 6' minimum, 6' x 8' or
larger is better.
It is nice to create the illusion of a
separate space by employing a "wing wall" or a
different type or style of flooring.
BedroomsPlan for a least one long wall against which
to place the head of the bed. Interior walls have long been used
to place the head of the bed (for warmth), SIP's panels have
negated that somewhat. Closets have been traditionally placed
towards other rooms (to help with noise reduction) or on an
outside wall (to help with insulation). However, timber frames
are usually enclosed with SIP's making this less necessary;
since they provide a tight insulation envelope for your home.
Closets
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Closets are typically 25" deep. Your drywall
person is able to split a 4' wide section and handle with a
minimum amount of fuss. |
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Bedroom closets usually range from 4' to 8' wide. |
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Walk in closets provide more free space than do wall
closets. Walk in closets are usually "U" or "L'
shaped. |
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The newer type closet 'systems' provide much better
functional use of closet space. |
HallwaysHallways are always at least 3' wide; 4' is
nicer.
Book shelves can easily be placed on one or
both sides of hallways. This allows for not only functional use
of the hallway but also give collectors much needed display
space. Keep in mind the hall will have to be made wider if this
is to be employed.
BathsSmallest three fixture bath is 5' X 8'.
Smallest two fixture bath is either 3' x 7' or 5' x 6'.
Minimum suggested door size is 32", though as small as 24"
can be seen. While we don't plan to get old, nor break a leg it
happens and wheel chairs only come so small….does your
bottom?
Standard sized tubs are 60" x 32"
wide; 6' tall with shower surround.
Standard showers
are 36" x 36" or 48" x 36", 6' tall; minimum
sized shower is 32" x 32" (but you had better be
really small to consider this one).
Standard toilet
sizes are typically 28" deep by 20" wide and need 24"
in clearance in front of and 12" on each side.
Bathroom vanities are usually 31" tall by 18"-22"
deep (this includes countertop). A double bowl vanity should be
a minimum of 5' wide, single bowl vanities should be at least 18"
wide, though 2' is a more realistic minimum. Sinks need at 30"
clearance in front of them.
Bathroom plumbing is
most cost efficient when placed back to back and stacked
floor-to-floor to other bathrooms in the house.
SUNThe sun rises in the EAST and sets in the WEST.
EAST is warm and bright. West is hot and dark.
Typically speaking, rooms that appreciate the morning sun, as
kitchens and your bedroom (if you are an early riser, or don't
normally work the night shift) should face East. Rooms like the
kitchen that we don't traditionally want to get too hot should
face the East.
The North side of the house is always
going to be colder than the other sides. This is also true of
the mountains; the North sides of mountains retain their snow
longer than the Southern exposed mountain sides.
SpansTry not to span more than 32'. Timbers longer
than 32' are difficult to find, and any thing that is unusual or
difficult to find is more expensive as a rule. See new design
guideline sheet.
Roof lines and RoofsGenerally speaking the steeper the
roofs pitch (the degree of slope to your roof) the better the
house looks. Roof pitches that look good are 6/12, 9/12 or
12/12. 12/12 roofs are very hard to work on but have the
advantage of giving you more square footage under them, if you
want it. If you prefer a less steeply pitched roof we can always
make the knee wall deeper to give you more room in your second
story or loft area.
If your house has multiple roof
lines try to keep them at the same pitch.
When
considering your roofing materials keep in mind what looks best
(shakes or metal) also costs more. Labor costs to have a metal
roof or shakes is also higher.
Not all shingles or
metal roofing materials are certified for direct application to
SIPs. Most building departments require that you have written
documentation from the manufacture as to what standards they
have met, etc. Cost should not be used as an indicator that the
shingles or metal roofing meet these higher standards. Shingles
not certified for direct application to SIPs have been known
bubble or wave up.
StairsI personally like stairs that are four feet wide
rather than three; if a person needs help, it's easier to walk
beside them than behind them.
Your local building
department will your best bet on stairs regarding what is
permitted and what is not.
Structural EngineeringCheck with your county's
building department, they will be able to tell you if the plans
for your timber frame will need to be stamped by a structural
engineer or not. We have found that areas that utilize the 2003
Universal Building Code require your plans to be stamped. It is
always best to check with the building dept.
BOOKSThere are many books out there on how to plan
your house. One I always suggest is The Not So Big House by
Sarah Suzanka, it should be available at most local libraries as
it has been out for many years. Many more suggested readings are
to be found on this web site under the associations & links
sections, under Suggested Readings.
CABIN CREEK TIMBER
FRAMES
828-369-5899
6624 Georgia Road Franklin, NC
28734
www.cabincreektimberframes.com
jbell@cabincreektimberframes.com
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